Book: Delights from the Garden of Eden
Chapter: That Little Street in Baghdad
Blurb:
At the crossroads of several eastern and western
cultures, Iraq had the ideal ingredients for a multiracial
society. Nowhere was this pluralistic culture more
evident than in the little street in Baghdad where I
grew up. It was a middle-class neighborhood, with
eucalyptus trees lining both sides of the street. In
springtime the air would be filled with the intoxicating
fragrance of the blossom on the citrus trees that were
planted all along the fences. Those shady places were
like magnets for the local children, where we used to
play, fight, reconcile, tell stories, and chatter about
everything and anything. As lunchtime approached, the
main meal of the day, we started playing our guessing
game as the welcome aromas of food drifted out of
the simmering pots and meandered along our street.
We would sniff these floating aromas and guess
whose mother was cooking what that day. Although
the dominant smell would be that of stew and rice,
which were cooked practically every day, the guessing
would still be intriguing, for there were so many kinds
of stews to identify. And almost always there would be the distinctive aroma of a special dish, and we knew
that one of us would soon be called by his or her mother
to distribute samples of that dish for the neighbors. As
the custom had always been, it was not thought right
to send back the neighbor’s dish empty, so it would be
returned with a comparable dish that was equally, if
not more, delicious. Thus, our guessing game was kept
alive by this exchange of hospitality, and from those
little dishes coming and going, we came to learn a lot
about people from all walks of life, and of diverse ethnic
and religious backgrounds. Such diversity was not a
unique situation in the city of Baghdad, which across
the centuries became a melting-pot of sorts for all
these groups.